H2 Motor Swap

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H2 Motor Swap

Postby MtnMan » Fri Dec 04, 2009 12:55 pm

Just wondering if anyone here has any experience or advice on pulling a motor and trans out of an H2.

I witnesses a motor swap at a dealer where they had lifted the entire body off the chassis... I'm not prepared to handle anything even close to that.

Can the motor and trans come out of the engine compartment as a unit?
Raise the vehicle and pull trans out the bottom? Motor first, trans first?
:wall:

I actually have a million questions running thru my head, but I though I would start here first...

Thanks.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby Humminnboatin » Fri Dec 04, 2009 2:20 pm

While I not yet done it I can tell you if I was doing it my plan of action would be to drop the trans out of the bottom first. Then remove the hood and radiator core support and radiator in order to give you the clearance to pull the engine.

Thats my best guess.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby EuroHummer » Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:30 pm

Just completed an H2 engine rebuild.

Remove front fenders, hood radiator, etc.

Disconnect engine from tranny and leave tranny in.

Pull engine as normal.

Replace engine in opposite order.

Some pics-
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2003 H2, 408 cubes, Dynatech headers, high flow cats, magnaflow exhaust, FAST LSXRT 102mm intake, LS7 90mm TB, Nelson Performance Tuning, Schneider cam (.552 lift, 266 dura.,114 lsa), K1 4.00 Stroke Crank/6.125 con rods, .030 over Wiseco X Series pistons,10.5 to 1 comp., FAST injectors, SA Gear Double Roller Timing set, Comp Pro Magnum Rockers/push rods/studs, MSD Coils/plug wires, CK Performance built 4L65E, Fabtech 6" lift, 37x12.5x20 Nitto Grapplers, JJ 20x9 Black Widows, E&G flares.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby MtnMan » Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:31 pm

Euro, vielen dank, nice pics. Big help understanding what this should look like once I start. Any unexpected problems or surprises with the project?

Humminnboatin, my father and I drew the same conclusion, try to drop the tranny first. Wouldn't this require sliding the motor forward free of the trans first? With the lack of room, the grill/radiator removed, motor is halfway out already, just to get separated from trans. Seems at this point, just yank it out, like Euro's pics.

We're gonna be figuring this one out as we go, thanks for the help.

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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby JustinOK » Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:30 am

Just curious, why are you pulling the motor? Are you putting in new one? Upgrading it as well?
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby MtnMan » Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:24 am

Either rebuilding factory motor or replacing it with either an aftermarket performance 6.0L or 6.2L.
Trans will be rebuilt or swapped as well. All depends on the best package or combo I can find.

I am planning on using my truck as a tow vehicle next summer, so more power with a HD trans will help.
On top of that, I'm tired of the 4-to-3 kickdown into a headwind, small bump in the road, whenever it feels like it...

WIth all the tuners and upgrades available, have you ever heard of any problems with the transfer case or rears not holding up to the added stress? I have searched for specs/rating for the Borg-Warner 44-84, no luck. I know many Duramax swaps includes a new transfer case, but I can't tell if it's a heavier case to handle the big numbers, is it Allison-specific, or just to provide selectable drive. Haven't seen any of the shops replacing the diffs, so I figure I'm all right on that.

Not going huge, just enough to make it enjoyable.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby EuroHummer » Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:45 am

Look into a 408...just bore it 0.30 over, buy a K1 4.00 stroker crank, K1 6.125 rods, and Wiseco pistons. Slap in a good cam and DR timing set, do a good valve job and there you go. A torquer motor on a budget. All internals can be found at www.wiseco.com

You can get several nice cams, to include GM factory high performance cams to put out power in the rpm range you want.

You can stick with the factory TB, intake and MAF sensor. It has been recommended by many people who are in the know not to change to an aftermarket MAF. All you get is bad idle, maybe a lean condition and not much, if any HP.

I even have a BBK 80mm TB brand new that I did not use that I would sell cheap. I went to a 90mm LS7 TB at the end.

That stock iron block and aluminum heads are great for what you talking about. You will have to have the pistons milled to get the compression ration down to 10 to 1 or so, depends on the gas you are using.

Have the PCM tuned by Nelson Performance after you decide on all the parts you are going to be using. Don't do like me and keep sending it back because you keep upgrading parts.

Headers and exhaust will set you back 2000 or so (good long tubes like Dynamaxx or Kooks).

I have part numbers and prices if you want a list.
2003 H2, 408 cubes, Dynatech headers, high flow cats, magnaflow exhaust, FAST LSXRT 102mm intake, LS7 90mm TB, Nelson Performance Tuning, Schneider cam (.552 lift, 266 dura.,114 lsa), K1 4.00 Stroke Crank/6.125 con rods, .030 over Wiseco X Series pistons,10.5 to 1 comp., FAST injectors, SA Gear Double Roller Timing set, Comp Pro Magnum Rockers/push rods/studs, MSD Coils/plug wires, CK Performance built 4L65E, Fabtech 6" lift, 37x12.5x20 Nitto Grapplers, JJ 20x9 Black Widows, E&G flares.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby flyin6 » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:09 am

EuroHummer wrote:Look into a 408...just bore it 0.30 over, buy a K1 4.00 stroker crank, K1 6.125 rods, and Wiseco pistons. Slap in a good cam and DR timing set, do a good valve job and there you go. A torquer motor on a budget. All internals can be found at http://www.wiseco.com

You can get several nice cams, to include GM factory high performance cams to put out power in the rpm range you want.

You can stick with the factory TB, intake and MAF sensor. It has been recommended by many people who are in the know not to change to an aftermarket MAF. All you get is bad idle, maybe a lean condition and not much, if any HP.

I even have a BBK 80mm TB brand new that I did not use that I would sell cheap. I went to a 90mm LS7 TB at the end.

That stock iron block and aluminum heads are great for what you talking about. You will have to have the pistons milled to get the compression ration down to 10 to 1 or so, depends on the gas you are using.

Have the PCM tuned by Nelson Performance after you decide on all the parts you are going to be using. Don't do like me and keep sending it back because you keep upgrading parts.

Headers and exhaust will set you back 2000 or so (good long tubes like Dynamaxx or Kooks).

I have part numbers and prices if you want a list.


Concurr on all recommendations.

Not to rob the thread, but perhaps you could offer a comment here on why 408" and not more? I have also considered a motor upgrade vs a supercharger. Why do you feel the 408 is the best value? We would definately appreciate your opinion here. Did you consider the 449" or the 427"?
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby EuroHummer » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:15 am

The longest stroke you can safely use with the factory block is 4 inches. This is pushing the limit. The piston will come to far out of the bore with a longer stroke and cause oil control problems and piston skirt damage. At least this is what the stroker experts say. You could go 0.60 over and get a few more cubes, but this takes away one rebuild. So, you end up with a 408 CI. This motor should provide a ton on torque and power for most any application. I was contemplating on going with a 4.250 stroke, but that requires an expensive aftermarket racing block. Of course, if you want to spend the money, you can go bigger inches, but the 408 keeps you within a reasonable budget while still providing you with 44 more cubic inches and a longer stroke for more torque.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby Jakester's Hummer » Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:19 pm

Rebuild what you got go with good pistons, rods and heads with lower compression, ( pistons made for a supercharger ) a good roots blower and you have basically increased your cubic inches. But this is just my suggestion. I am just a fan of supercharging I put one on my boat ( but it already had 8.5 to 1 Compression ratio ) so for $2500 and a little time I picked up 12 mph which is a lot for a boat. The only problem I ever had was I was at max boost let off the kicked it again and blew a head gasket but that was my stupidity. Did not mean to hijack this threat.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby flyin6 » Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:00 am

EuroHummer wrote:The longest stroke you can safely use with the factory block is 4 inches. This is pushing the limit. The piston will come to far out of the bore with a longer stroke and cause oil control problems and piston skirt damage. At least this is what the stroker experts say. You could go 0.60 over and get a few more cubes, but this takes away one rebuild. So, you end up with a 408 CI. This motor should provide a ton on torque and power for most any application. I was contemplating on going with a 4.250 stroke, but that requires an expensive aftermarket racing block. Of course, if you want to spend the money, you can go bigger inches, but the 408 keeps you within a reasonable budget while still providing you with 44 more cubic inches and a longer stroke for more torque.

I read a little more about this on line after my post. You're right, the 408 seems like the best of all worlds, especially if you actually need an engine overhaul. Thanks for keeping us informed along the way with this tremendous build!
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby MtnMan » Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:34 am

Euro,
Thanks for all the details, quite a build you have. Unfortunately I am not prepared to handle the tear down of my motor, and rebuild like yourself. Wish I could, hell of a project to complete and enjoy. I'll be taking the easy way out on this one, the one that comes in a crate.
Have you gotten your truck back on the road? Wondering if your trans was upgraded as well? I've read numerous posts about big motors tearing the life outta the stock trans. Also, any worries about the transfer case or diffs holding up under all that power?

"Have the PCM tuned by Nelson Performance after you decide on all the parts you are going to be using."
I agree, just trying to figure out now how extensive the upgrades will all be before I get started.

Sean
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby EuroHummer » Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:38 pm

Check on the turn key 525 HP crate motor

Looks like a great bolt in engine

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/TKLS2/
2003 H2, 408 cubes, Dynatech headers, high flow cats, magnaflow exhaust, FAST LSXRT 102mm intake, LS7 90mm TB, Nelson Performance Tuning, Schneider cam (.552 lift, 266 dura.,114 lsa), K1 4.00 Stroke Crank/6.125 con rods, .030 over Wiseco X Series pistons,10.5 to 1 comp., FAST injectors, SA Gear Double Roller Timing set, Comp Pro Magnum Rockers/push rods/studs, MSD Coils/plug wires, CK Performance built 4L65E, Fabtech 6" lift, 37x12.5x20 Nitto Grapplers, JJ 20x9 Black Widows, E&G flares.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby MtnMan » Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:34 pm

Nice looking hardware. Thanks for the link.
I've been shopping around for a while, lot of nice stuff out there.
I've found a guy who will pull my motor, tear it down and build up a 408 like you recommended.
All at a reasonable price. All forged, dynoed, tuned, and out the door.
Still have a little time before I get this started, I'll keep you posted.
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Re: H2 Motor Swap

Postby Cberube1990 » Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:03 am

I'm trying to pull engine out complete any ideas or help seems oil pan is not letting it clear axel any ideas thanks and will a 04 trans work in a 03
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